FAQ's Q: How old does my dog have to be to participate? A: Puppies need to be over ten weeks and have had at least two of their "puppy shots." Q: How many dogs are in a class? A: At least two, and no more than six! Q: Do you allow the dogs to "socialize?" A: We allow the dogs to have "recess"--play off lead together--beginning the third week of school, once they have been taught to stop on command. Otherwise recess might last a really long time! Q: Can my whole family attend? A: Yes, unless you are talking about second-cousins-twice-removed! I do suggest leaving little ones home, or bringing along a lot of entertainment for them. Q: How long does the class run each week? A: 1.5 hours; very LONG hours if you've brought your three year old twins along without coloring books, juice, and a babysitter! Q: How can you say you use "positive reinforcement" if you don't use treats? A: Dogs find many things in life positive and motivating besides just food; we help dogs learn through what is called "self-reinforcement"--the various good things in life they are interested in are earned with the "right" behaviors. Positive reinforcers that can be strategically used in this manner include: rest; touch; freedom; play; and absolutely ANYTHING that captures their interest! Don't get it yet? Of course you don't--that's why you need my class! Q: My dog is over 6 months old; shouldn't he go into the intermediate class? A: Not unless you have completed my beginning program. My beginning classes are directed toward owners of all ages, for dogs of all ages; the intermediate classes are for OWNERS who have graduated from my beginning classes. Q: I've been to three other dog classes already; do I still need to go through your beginning class? A: Yes, since my system is geared toward training people, not just their dogs. It is unlikely your other classes have taught you and your dog everything you'd need to know to proceed into my intermediate class. My terminology and system are just too different, and almost everyone--even owners of obedience trial champions and working dogs of different sorts--will be learning some usefull new information and techniques in my beginning class. Q: What if we flunk your class? A: You can't--you are my advertising, and I won't allow it! You'll just keep getting "scholarships" back through my program until both you and I think you make me look good! Q: What do you do differently in your intermediate classes verses your beginning? A: My intermediate classes have more dogs in them, and are all about hands-on application; the beginning classes put a great deal of emphasis on learning theory and training concepts as well as application. Q: What sort of equipment do you suggest? A: I leave it up to my students; but during the first lesson I can make recommendations based on my observations of the different dogs and what I know about the effectiveness, safety and humane concerns pertaining to different equipment options available. I do think either leather or cotton (6' to 10' long) leashes are superior to nylon and chain leads. A very long retractable lead is great for certain obedience exercises, though they are not a good primary leash. Q: What do we need to bring to class? A: A throw rug , towel, or blanket to be your dog's "desk;" a few favorite toys; a bone, nylabone, or rawhide for your dog to chew on while we are talking; and the collar and leash you feel most comfortable with. Q: What if we have to miss a class? A: You can make it up with another class. The lessons do not need to be consecutive after you have had lesson one; each lesson addresses a stand-alone concept.