When Double Means Trouble:
Canine Sibling Rivalry
Peggy Moran


Devotees of one canine companion may want to double their enjoyment by getting a second pet. The theory goes, "if one is good, two will be even better", and owners of multiple dogs generally substantiate it. Multiple dogs can actually be easier to live with than certain only-dogs, provided the dogs get along with each other, and the owner clearly establishes rules for a stable group structure. Some are adamant in their belief that "an only dog is a lonely dog", stating firmly they would never have just one again, having experienced the enjoyment and benefits of multiple dog ownership. Many only-dogs get along fine being part of the people-group, and don’t show any symptoms of pining for dog company. But sometimes pet owners worry their dog isn’t getting enough opportunities to really express its inner dog, playing with and spending time with a member of its own species. Many begin to search for dog-friends for their pet, enrolling in training classes, or visiting dog parks. Watching dogs play together is educational for the person who wants to understand more about them and their social relationships. A great deal of insight into their own relationship with their pet may be gained through observation of several dogs playing together. Developing an improved understanding of dogs’ body language and relationships, owners begin to recognize the importance of canine social rules and reinforcement.
Owners of dogs that must spend long hours home alone may consider getting a second dog specifically as an intended companion for their primary pet. Before doing this, it would be wise to consider the needs of the second dog, not just the first. Getting a pet for your pet might be good for the first dog, but can leave the second one at loose ends. While it may establish a strong attachment to the first dog, it still requires a bond with the human members of the family as well. Two dogs are certainly more work and responsibility than one, and a second dog should not be obtained unless an owner has considered the needs of the second dog and their own ability to provide for them. Two dogs means twice as much care, expense, leadership, and training.
With consideration and careful planning, the introduction of a second dog more than doubles a pet owner’s enjoyment, and provides the first dog with a great friend. But unfortunately, sometimes the intended best friends don’t get along, and when this happens it can make life miserable for all involved.

Canine Rules of Engagement:
Dogs social behaviors are dictated by inherent personalities that are influenced by environment, experience, hormonal status, and health. Dominant dogs assert without apology in efforts to establish themselves as group leaders. Subordinate dogs willingly accept the role of follower without seeming regret or resentment. Dominant dogs are not mentally unhealthy bullies, and subordinate dogs are not wimps. Dominant dogs are animals with superior capacities for survival and leadership of their group; subordinate dogs are benefiting followers to those superior leaders. Serious intercanine fighting stem from interactions between two or more dogs that possess similar strengths and dominant drive; they are competitive, accepting, countering and issuing challenges. When two dogs meet with similar but not remarkably superior force, both may rise to the occasion and be unwilling, perhaps even unable, to back down. The early socialization of a puppy, especially during its first eight weeks of life, seems to factor greatly into an adult dog’s interactions with other canines. Puppies which didn’t interact with littermates during this time may not understand canine signals regarding dominance and submission, and may not offer those signals when interacting with another dog.
It is fair, amongst dogs, for the superior in strength and determination to prevail in ritualized "fights", where without bloodshed in most cases, the issue of ranking order can be resolved. More dominant dogs repeatedly take possessions away from lower ranking dogs, and then often use those possessions to entice the subordinate dog into accepting a "challenge" for it. If the less dominant dog is still testing for ranking status, it may take the bait, attempting to grab the object; the two dogs may run and chase, wrestle, and tug, or forget all about the object and get more involved in serious fighting. But in nearly every case, the taunting dog already knew it had the "upper paw", or advantage, and was using the arena of ritualized play to further reinforce superior rank. As long as dogs seem to be working out their play relationships without actual fur flying and injuries occurring, owners are advised to stay out of them and let the dogs work it out. Dogs in nature do not have human referees playing judge and jury; they manage to work out their own relationships using species specific tools. We may not fully understand those tools, and may be offended or frightened by the intensity of intercanine ritualized battles for dominance. Observing multiple dogs, owners can begin to understand the tools, and rules, of canine social engagement.  

Play isn’t just play:
       When dogs roll around and wrestle, engaging in rough-and-tumble play, while it is obvious at first glance they are having fun, a deeper look reveals an important underlying purpose for "dog’s play". Rough play fighting, along with possession-controlling play are ways dominant dogs can reinforce their ranking status without having the situation get ugly and turn into serious fighting. During rough play, dogs express inhibited aggression--growling, snapping, biting, chasing, and mounting--which can be very intimidating to the inexperienced dog owner. This "play" works to allow dominant dogs to prevail and subordinate dogs to yield--and then both still get along, without anyone having been hurt. Later, if there were issues where the two dogs didn’t agree about something, the subordinate dog would submit to the dominant dog without challenging it, having already learned during play what the outcome would be like.

Winner takes all:
       What’s yours is mine and what’s mine is mine; dominant dogs only share what they are not presently interested in. Generally, dominant dogs are interested in ANYTHING the subordinate dog has; even if the dominant dog has hoarded every toy and bone, when the subordinate dog finds a stick, the dominant dog may suddenly feel motivated to take it as its own. This is not so much because it is a canine kleptomaniac, or because it wants what it doesn’t have; it is actually all about reminding the other dog that it isn’t entitled to anything the dominant dog wants. Possessiveness over people, furniture, dog beds, water bowls, food, toys, and bones can make life seem pretty unpleasant for the "underdog". But generally, a dominant dog will ease up on its displays of priority rights, once it is satisfied the subordinate dog knows and accepts its "place". While some dogs seem very sharing, when a dog seems selfish, it is important not to undermine it. Though it is very hard to watch one of the dogs get the "short end of the stick" (or even no end of the stick!), especially if your senior dog is the one who turns out to be the one-upped part of the pair, stay out of it. Possessive dogs that use objects and places to establish dominance are playing by fair "dog rules of engagement", and it is in both dog’s best interest for the more capable dog to prevail and for the subordinate dog to accept it. In fact, the owners usually seem more distressed by one dogs seeming "selfishness" than the surrendering dog. The rules of canine interaction come naturally to dogs, and includes ritualized fights as they test one another over choice possessions and places. As long as the dogs are settling possession and placement matters themselves, without actual blood and fur flying, stay out of it. When two dogs both seem equally motivated by dominance drive to retain control of possessions and territory, serious dog fights can erupt. it is important to NEVER ATTEMPT TO BREAK UP A DOG FIGHT by reaching in to grab either dog; you are very likely to suffer a redirected bite. Instead, break up fighting dogs by dropping cookie sheets or other light weight (not an iron skillet!) pans amongst or even upon them, to startle and interrupt their aggressive train of thought.

Age and seniority do not guarantee a management position:
       When a second "little brother or sister" dog is introduced, in hopes of making life even more enjoyable for the first dog, most people picture the second dog nicely accepting status as second in line to the first. It can come as a big shock when the second dog gives the first a shove off the throne at the top of the "hill" and claims its position as top dog. The possibly hard to accept fact is, more dominant dogs will claim dominant rank and its privileges, without bearing on age or "who was there first". The only way to guarantee your first dog maintains a status as first in line is to include the dog in the selection process of the second, and to choose a dog which will behave subordinately to it, not just as a puppy but potentially as an adult as well. With the selection of an adolescent or adult second dog, it is easier to determine the prospects for a long term relationship between the dogs. But with a puppy, though initially subordinate, if it is of a similar or larger size breed, and especially if it is the same gender, as it matures the tables may start to turn and it may start to give the first dog a serious challenge for ranking status. When one dog is seriously challenging for rank, and the other refuses to yield, very serious "in-fighting" can occur, often resulting in grave injury to one or both dogs. Although dogs of the same gender can get along very well ( I personally have...several...of both genders, and very different sizes, living together harmoniously), the best odds for a pair of dogs getting along would be to have the more dominant dog be of a larger breed and opposite gender to the dog with a softer, or more subordinate personality.

When fur is flying:
       I said it once, but it bears repeating: NEVER try to break up fighting dogs by grabbing or touching them; instead drop noisy pots and pans right in their midst, to derail their aggressive trains of thought.

Which dog is the "dominant" dog? Maybe neither; maybe both. Dominance isn’t a fixed position, but a drive; while extremely dominant dogs may achieve an obvious superior ranking status over other dogs, it isn’t as typical as one would think. Very often I hear people say they cannot tell which of their dogs is "dominant", or "alpha". In well socialized groups of dogs, there may not be one obviously dominant dog; they may have a perfectly agreeable relationship, indicating neither dog has a very strong sense of competitiveness. Two or more of these dogs can be a joy, as they are typically equally noncompetitive with their human family members. When one or more dogs are competitive, it may be only in certain situations, and the ranking order may trade back and forth. This indicates both dogs are probably "beta" types--driven to compete, but capable of backing down when challenged, without getting riled. "Omega" type dogs are noncompetitive, and behave submissively when confronted by a more dominant dog, often rolling over, submissively wetting, or becoming very inhibited. A dominant dog feels entitled to anything of value and will take what it wants from subordinates. Because some dominant dogs are very laid back or indifferent to certain possessions, food, or other entitlements, and especially if they feel confident about their status within their group, they may seem very lenient, tolerant, or indifferent toward subordinate dogs. But when a particular issue gets the dominant dog’s dander up, the other dogs are well aware it means business and is willing to back up any implied threat. When these threats are undermined by owners trying to get their dogs to behave as "equals", they will increase in aggressiveness and determination to prove superior rank. The more they are interrupted, the more likely their behavior will resurface with increased intensity.
Serious interdog relationship problems only occur when two dogs have very equal dominance drive in a particular situation, or in competition for specific privileges of rank, especially when undermined by interrupting owners. Even two very alpha, competitive dogs may get along at times when they are not concerned with the source of their specific rivalry. When two alpha dogs have nonspecific, generalized aggression toward one another, and cannot be in each other’s presence without a fight erupting, the fight must be resolved with one dogs "prevailing" and the other accepting defeat or they will be at great risk of getting into a fight to the death or at least grave injury. To allow two aggressive dogs to "fight it out" would be insanity, potentially involving both dogs, and people desperate to break them up when it "goes to far" getting badly hurt. On occasion, people have muzzled both dogs and then supervised their attempts to work things out without the risk of terrible injury. Muzzled dogs can still engage in brutal battles, vocalizing frighteningly, mounting, wrestling, clawing and muzzle poking in frustrated attempts to bite. One dog may attempt and be successful at pinning the other dog, and the dog on the bottom may even seem to submit. But I’d be reluctant to assume the dogs had now "worked things out, and were ready to be buddies. In cases where aggression between two dogs is involving true intention to inflict injurious harm, the best solution, though painful, is to rehome on dog. While it hurts to have to play "Sophie’s Choice" with your dogs, it would hurt more to have one end up badly wounded or even dead.

Evaluate your dogs to determine which is more dominant:
       The following evaluation is not intended to imply a high scoring dog will always demonstrate excessive dominance toward other dog. High test scores indicate a greater potential for intercanine dominance issues, and when challenged by an equally high scoring dog, there is a greater risk for serious fighting to occur. The most important use of this evaluation is to determine which dog in a multiple dog family should be given dominant dog status and priority treatment over the other.

DOMINANCE EVALUATION:

Behavior with a non-challenging dog:
1-fearful/flighty; 1-passive/subordinate; 2-friendly/confident; 3-forward/dominant; 6-aggressive/dominant
Age of dog being evaluated:
3-adult; 2-geriatric; 1-puppy
Gender of dog being evaluated :
4-Intact male; 3-intact female; 1-neutered male; 4-neutered female; 0-either gender under 6 months
Size of dog being evaluated:
3-large; 2-medium; 1-small
When challenged by a dominant dog, this dog’s behavior is:
1-flighty/ fearful; 1-subordinate; 2-confident; 3-dominant; 6-aggressive

SCORING:
Add up total scores on each dog living in your home. Dogs with similar scores (within four points of one another) are more likely to demonstrate competitive behavior. In interaction with humans, the dog with the higher score should be treated with higher priority, and designated the "dominant" dog. If both dogs have the same score, the dog that is larger, stronger, older, or was in the home first would be designated the "dominant" dog and reinforced as such. Dogs with the same scores, or similar scores may never have a problem with one another, especially if neither dog scored any "sixes".




Ten tips for preventing canine "sibling rivalry"

1. Be the leader in relationships with your dogs--If unbeknownst to you, or perhaps even deliberately, you are acting as a follower or subordinate group member in relationships to your dogs, the entire social structure will be unstable. This can really undermine efforts to establish "rules of engagement" between the dogs in the family. If all dogs present are aware at all times they do not have a shot at the top rung of the social ladder, they will be less likely to express serious aggressiveness in competition for rank between themselves. Dogs have the capacity to either lead or follow in relationships with group members. Dogs in groups establish a social hierarchy with more dominant dogs described as "Alpha", and the subdominants as "Beta". At the bottom of the ladder are the "Omega" dogs; these animals are not normally subject to challenges from, nor do they offer any to, the higher ranking group members.
People who relate to their dogs as subordinates, never acknowledging their dogs as competitors for dominant rank, help prevent their pets from developing dominance based aggression problems with humans. It is best to establish kind, indirect leadership which reinforces a dog’s subordinate behaviors, such as acknowledging sitting verses jumping, licking verses "mouthing" and biting, quietness verses attention demands, and following rather than leading behaviors while on walks and when going through doorways. Possessions can be used to establish leadership, as well; avoiding competitive play initiated by the dog, such as tug-of-war and chasing games can help prevent people being played into a lower ranking status.

2. Obedience train all dogs in the family--Besides helping to reinforce human family members as great, kind leaders in the eyes of your dogs, obedience training does important double duty; it helps redirect energy into positive attention earning outlets. This can help to reduce negative attention seeking behaviors that are frequently manifested as "Notice me--I’m in trouble again!" pouncing (hopefully mock) attacks made by more dominant dogs upon underdogs in the family. It seems the more a dog is addressed for misbehavior and disciplined with an owner’s focused, angry attention, the more the dog pushes the buttons which will earn the same negative response again when it is bored or being ignored.  Using positive reinforcement, owners can train their dogs to be more concerned with what the human leaders are offering than with interdog relationships. When all eyes are straight ahead and focused on the task at hand (or paw), then tensions between the dogs can gradually and indirectly be reduced. Using obedience commands to interrupt playing dogs gives owners opportunities to override dog impulses with owner expectations, and helps establish a familiar pattern of command and compliance for occasions when play fighting turns serious.

3. Don’t rescue the under-dog--Though it is easy to want to rescue the dog that is always on the receiving end of dominance from its canine siblings, the more you rescue them, the worse they are treated by the more dominant dog. This is most likely because the subordinate dog is being elevated in group rank to status as your seeming "second in command", with priority rights and privileges which would normally only go to a more dominant dog in an all-canine group. Playing by people-rules with dogs that don’t have behavior problems may be harmless, but when multiple dogs are getting into battles for rank, it is very important not to undermine the dominant dog. Treating dogs "fairly" and equally, or especially showing favoritism to picked-upon lower ranking members, leads to increased competition related problems. Chasing away the dominant dog to allow the lower ranking pet to eat, play, receive affection, go out doors, receive treats and bones, or be greeted by guests can add to tensions between the dogs. If dog tussles get too loud or annoying, interrupt both dogs, without picking a side. Shake or toss the penny bottle, being sure not to say a word or not looking with glaring disapproval at the seeming "bully". Sometimes you may feel the need to break things up, but you must be certain you don’t seem biased to the subordinate dog; in fact, you may have to work hard to harden your heart a bit to the dog on the bottom, and start reinforcing the "top dog".

4. Reinforce the dominant dog--and treat it in a priority manner over the other dog. Acknowledge the dominant dog when greeting; take it outside first; feed it first; if it wants to sit near you make the subordinate dog move away as it approaches; however do not make the mistake of over-elevating its perception of its rank in relation to you and other human family members. Make sure people don’t yield to the dominant dog in any of the areas important to its rank with other dogs, or you may find yourselves facing a dominance aggression problem toward people as well as other dogs. In some cases, I have actually muzzled, and then gently but firmly rolled over the designated subordinate dog, holding it pinned to the floor and allowing the dominant dog to come and posture over and sniff it. This is only done in cases where dogs are so nearly equally matched in dominance, size and strength that it seems unlikely one dog will easily prevail over the other without a nasty fight. Reducing one dog’s rank by taking away priority treatment, and at the same time giving the other dog the privileges of dominance can help turn the tables on a seemingly hopeless problem without having to physically help establish a clear government between dogs. Have another family member take the dominant dog on a walk, or for a ride in the car, so that you can cuddle, kiss, and apologize to your subordinate dog without making it an even bigger target for the other dog’s displays of dominance.

5. Separate dogs that are not getting along, when unable to supervise-- Be certain confinement is inescapable; many owners have returned home to discover horrible injury has occurred to one or both dogs when they managed to escape confinement and fight. Be sure children, babysitters, and any other visitors to your home know in no uncertain terms dogs that have been fighting aggressively must not be allowed to be together without your supervision, or one of them may unwittingly allow the dogs to get together and then be hurt attempting to break them up.

6. Desensitize-- While it is wise to keep disagreeing dogs separated and confined when unable to supervise them, always keeping them separated prevents the relationship from improving. Having the dogs spend safe supervised time together, and working to desensitize them to each others’ presence can reduce volatility. Practice obedience training with both dogs together, on leashes, in an outdoor area where the dogs do not have a history of territoriality or fighting. Ideally, each dog should be handled by separate family members; but if only one person must work with both dogs together, be sure to use muzzles on them to prevent bites from occurring while they are in close contact. Or, sit and read a book, have a conversation with someone, or watch a movie with both dogs on leashes and muzzled, while both dogs are expected to lie quietly at your feet. While they don’t have to be friendly, it would be quite disrespectful of your authority for them to erupt into fighting at your feet. Rather than allowing them to work out their differences, teach them there are times when you expect both of them to be more concerned with subordinance to you than with the unresolved dominance issues between themselves. Correct, shaking or dropping penny bottles to distract them away from each other, if aggressiveness starts to surface, without singling out either dog.

7. Socialize--Enroll in training classes or visit locations such as dog parks, pet stores that allow dogs, or a dog-owning friend’s house, where your dog can be exposed to other dogs at a distance, and under control. Rather than allowing your dog to sniff and be sniffed, keep your distance and work on desensitization. Reinforce your dog positively for paying attention to you, and work on obedience training in the presence of other dogs, to remind your pet its relationship with you takes highest priority. Dogs that have been taught to ignore other dogs and focus on play and training with their owners seem to be more relaxed when allowed to socially engage with dogs. Do not allow dogs to play in unfenced areas, or with their leashes on. They may become dangerously tangled and if a fight breaks out you could be bitten trying to disentangle them. Turn dogs loose to play in a fenced area, under supervision, after they have been allowed to be in each other’s presence as close working classmates. It is important to have dogs wear buckle collars with ID on them; but be sure not to leave training or constricting (slip, pinch or choke type collars) on dogs liberated to play together; the collar could get caught in the other dog’s tooth and cause it to be strangled.

8. Neuter adult males--In addition to helping reduce overall dominance, castration of male dogs reduces their "male dog smell", and helps reduce other dog’s aggressive attention toward them. Spaying females, on the other hand, can sometimes increase intercanine aggression; female dogs may actually give off more "male" signals when their hormone levels are altered by neutering. Spaying females is advised, for health reasons and to prevent pregnancy. But when there are unresolved battles between two intact dogs in a household, it makes sense to consider a strategy for neutering which will help reinforce the more dominant dog’s status. With two females, consider spaying the more dominant bitch first; this may help exaggerate her position as top dog, and acceptance from the designated subordinate female may be greater when the stronger female comes across as more "male". Waiting to spay a second female for a few months can allow time for behavioral modification and group stability to be established. With two male dogs of nearly equal strength, size, and dominance, it makes sense to neuter the more subordinate dog first, to help reduce his status in the group. Intercanine aggression between opposite gender dogs is unusual, but does happen. This seems to involve more masculine female dogs; either those which are already spayed, or intact females which may have been androgenized in utero--surrounded by many male siblings, a female puppy may be "steeped" in male hormones, influencing hormonally based gender development.

9. Speak with your veterinarian regarding possible drug therapy in extreme cases--According to behaviorist Dr, Nicholas Dodman (note--do we need actual permission to use this quote?), in his book "The Dog Who Loved Too much", the use of Prozac and similar psychotropic drugs in the treatment of dominance based intercanine aggression can have a beneficial effect, when used to treat the more dominant dog. According to Dodman, "The use of Prozac in this situation will likely reinforce the dog’s dominance, which paradoxically reduces aggression. Elevated brain levels of serotonin resulting from Prozac treatment seem to stabilize the dog’s mood and increase its overall confidence. It is as if the dog no longer has so much to prove. Synthetic progesterones have also been used to treat dominance-related fighting, but their serious side effects, such as diabetes, make them a last resort."

10. Seek professional help if fighting seems serious. Consider rehoming one of the dogs, if treatment is failing to prevent harm.